myChinaBlog

5 June 2008

Huangshan Mountain: An inspiration for Chinese artists for centuries …

Posted by Andrew under: 5. Huangshan Mountains; 0. Home China Page .

… and a challenge and an epiphany for the Chinateers.

I had read and heard so much about Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) that I presumed it could never match my expectations. The trip there was long and confusing, and this after dozens of emails trying to pinpoint the best route there with Ellyse, our Singapore-cum-Shanghai Internet helpline. Getting there involved three taxis, two buses, several long walks hauling all our luggage, finding the proper place to check the majority of it-including our laptops at the bus station (with a grain of trust that all would be there when we returned the next day and that we would make it back by 5 pm when they closed-all this explained to us in Chinese)-an amazing cable ride covering over 7500m in 8 minutes, and an almost 2 hour hike to find our hotel before sunset.

We were generously rewarded for our efforts: Huangshan is nothing less than magical. An enormous amalgamation of dozens of jagged mountain peaks and ridges, strange and mysterous stone figures and pine tress popping out of every crack and crevice, and the ever changing canvas of clouds, some above, some floating by, enveloping our bodies and faces, and some below to be gazed out from above.

Our hotel, the Baiyun (White Cloud) was two star at best, but the location was key. We were within a 15 minute hike of one of the revered sunrise spots on the mountain next to the weather observatory. After the arduous hike with about 15 pounds each of our most-precious-can’t-live-without-even-for-one-night possessions, we made out on our “first” hike after checking in to our triple room for sunset (without 15 lbs on our backs) - approximately 2 miles of especially well maintained but steep steps.

Along the way we regularly passed the infamous porters: rail thin but sinewy men carrying all sorts of cargo on their backs (from food, concrete and marble, 12-foot plumbing pieces, and of course, the stereotypical lazy, overweight American with the help of walking and balancing sticks). Although they did not like to be photographed, they would often smile through broken yellowed teeth if you greeted them with a simple “Ni Hao” (hello). Three hours later, and dripping with sweat, we were rewarded with the most amazing photographs and memories that we are inequipped to described (in both Chinese and English).

Dinner at the hotel was a challenge, as the menu was Chinese-only (something we are finding is more the norm than not). Fortunately, we found a Taiwanese fellow guest who did his best to translate and order for us. Word to the wise: apparently “tomato” is “potato” in Chinese-Dan Quayle take note! Luckily, he ordered us the most delicious scrambled eggs we have ever had (though we asked for eggplant). After dinner, he insisted on buying Zach a pijiu (beer) in an attempt to make him his drinking buddy as he proceeded to sweet talk the ladies behind the bar. We can only imagine how he made out as we were already in bed and asleep, getting ready for the following morning sunrise hike.

The alarm went off as scheduled though I was awake way before the alarm. As much as I love watching bugs, I cannot abide sleeping with them. Did I mention the entire mountainside is overrun with flying weevils this time of year? At least they don’t bite but I’d rather not have them crawl on me while sleeping. Reggie has noted how fanatical I am about bugs in the room. (We all have our neuroses, thanks, Doreen.) We made our way to “Bright Summit” to hopefully catch the sunrise. Though the air was comfortable enough, no need for a jacket, the summit was quite blustery and I was glad I brought the windbreaker anyway. We were the second group to make it to the meterology/observatory center at Bright Summit and we were treated to a cloudy and overcast view so we never caught a sunrise but still enjoyed the mist blowing across the mountain and visited a different viewing platform we had not seen on the earlier hike. Without our baggage, the hike was much more pleasant though we know we’d have to hike back to catch the cable cars with our baggage. There aren’t words to describe what we saw, perhaps we should just quote a poet on the beauty that is Huang Shan: <quote here>

After the sunrise hike, we spent the rest of the morning taking a nap and preparing ourselves mentally for the hike back to the cable cars. Though I have never backpacked anywhere, I now can appreciate what others have done before me. Both Reg and I are glad we followed Zach’s insistence to do leg workouts before we left. (I cheated by doing step aerobics with Reg’s friend Suzy.) Reg opted for a full breakfast while Zach and I ate “ramen” noodles, a leftover bun from an earlier plane ride (thanks, Mom, for making me save anything wrapped up that I can eat later!) and instant coffee. Almost all the hotels have pots to boil water so we can make it the night before and fill our water bottles for the next day. So far none of us have caught any intestinal bugs!

At first we had planned to be at a different section of the mountains and work our way down the mountain for the full day but because we had to pick up our luggage from the bus station before 5pm (which meant negotiating the buses and cabs that take over four hours in total), we had to rearrange our plans and to our dismay, basically hike back the way we came, seeing nothing new. Fortunately, the trails are well marked and we found a new trail that would take us to the cable cars via a different route. This turned out to be spectacular and the most fabulous portion of the trail. (Click on the pix below!)

We negotiated the way back and inadvertently were sent to a train station (one of the many vocabulary words I learned ahead of time!) instead of the bus station! We finally made our way to the airport, albeit seven hours early. (Zach’s mom, please note: he is at last early for something and you know how much he hates waiting!) Both Reg and I also opted to be at the airport rather than tour Tongxi with all our luggage in tow. We were the only people at the airport and had VIP service at the restaurant, and yes, paid for it. A wonderful woman named Ashley, a college senior, helped us with the menu and was sweet as can be. They love to practice their English and stare at Zach and his arms, which he doesn’t mind either. Reggie and I seem to blend which is fine with us though I am sometimes mistaken for Singaporean or Japanese.

> Click on the inspiring views here <