22May2008
Posted by Andrew under: China in the News.
Reading about the earthquake is still unsettling. The death toll has surpassed 40,000 with over 240,000 injured and 32,000 still missing. The government certainly seems to be doing something to aid the victims and stories of the soldiers continuously working to save lives even after getting news of deaths in their own family. The soldiers are committed to helping others because they were unable to save their own and honor their family by insuring the safety of others.
There have been over 150 aftershocks in some regions causing landslides and hampering land rescue efforts. Even worse are the rains that cause mudslides killing even more people. Infection, disease, mosquitoes and possibly rabid animals are also adding to the problems rescue workers, admin officials and journalists will be facing in those areas hit by the quakes.
Trained dogs searching for victims are coming up with cuts and bruises from the sharp objects hidden amongst the rubble. Many of the dogs are actually crying and depressed during their “tours of duty.”
The government has received Y1.3 billion ($186M) in cash and supplies for earthquake relief from multinational corporations around the world. Saudi Arabia has pledged $50M in cash; Norway, €110,000; Germany, €1.5M and U.S., $34M. (Did we host a telethon to raise money?)
I asked our guide, Qing, whether all this money will actually reach where they need to go and she felt that it probably will so that the government can foster goodwill and that the whole world is watching. Thankfully, Haliburton (and its subsidiaries) do not have a “contract/money vacuum” attached to this relief effort.
This awful tragedy is affecting our travels a little bit. The overnight train we were originally going to take to Suzhou next Tuesday no longer has soft bed sleeper cars (the other options are hard bed sleepers and then the worst, hard seats, which are the cheapest and the least comfortable, especially for an overnight trip). We believe these were re-routed to aid in the relief effort so we will be making
our way to Suzhou by plane and taxi, probably. Just a little blip but we do have an insider checking on things for us. Though we did not use a formal travel service, we did make contacts through tripadvisor.com (like Qing) and they have been very helpful in making sure we are able to continue our trip as smoothly as possible.
20May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
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19May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 2. The Great Wall.
Obviously a trip to the Great Wall is always a part of the planned itinerary. This is probably everyone’s dream to see. First, a little background to our decision on where to do this magnificent climb. I’ll let Zach fill you in:
There are many sections of the wall that can be visited as day trips from Beijing. The further afield you go, the less crowded and more scenic it’ll be. As I read more about the wall, it became clear that a day trip was 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours traveling to the wall, 2-1/2 hrs climbing a crowded section of the wall with tacky merchants selling souvenirs, and then the ride back. We wanted more.
The original plan was to overnight on the Wall itself, sleeping in one of the watchtowers on a mat in a sleeping bag under the stars. This would’ve allowed us a sunset hike; waking up to witness sunrise on the wall. There was one major downside, we’d be on the wall for 20 hours with no access to indoor plumbing (ie. bathroom facilities). So I researched alternatives and remembered reading about one of the most unusual hotels: >Commune by the Wall<.
This hotel, part of the 2002 Venetian Art Biennial, originally consisting of 14 original villas designed by world class Asian architects. The starkly modern design combined with access to an unrestored portion of the wall made this a potentially expensive alternative. After much research, I’ve obtained a suite with an adjoining bedroom in one of the cantilever villas inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright.
We decided with some physical discipline, we could replicate the same experience on the Wall but substitute it with a 5-star hotel and luxurious sleeping arrangement! This was a no-brainer, with Andrew and Reggie voting unanimously for the luxury accommodations.
The location and accommodations exceeded our expectations (after a little problem with the air conditioner) - the place was absolutely beautiful with with a view of the Wall in the distance, though we didn’t notice it until the following day! We needed a driver to take us down to the passage that then lead to a section of the Wall. They told us that the passage would take about 20 minutes but they neglected to tell us how steep and winding the climb it would be.
Cramping calves later, we arrived at the mountainside on one side with a dilapidated portion of the Wall on the other but it unfolded before us as unexplored territory. We were the only ones on the Wall and we could’ve been the only ones in the world. The view was breath-taking and we felt the history exploding in front of us. Since it was quite overrun with foliage, you could feel the history leeching out as well as how the whole project was in vain.
We did a sunset hike along the wall and woke the following morning at 3:45 so we can catch the 4:30 sunrise, though it took longer to reach above the mountains. The morning was rather cold but the hike quickly warmed us and we had to shed some of the layers. There’s something amazing with being on something so historic and have it all to yourself. No one else at our hotel was up for a sunrise hike and we didn’t see a soul until we arrived back at the Commune for breakfast.
Hopefully our pictures capture the beauty we experienced:
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19May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 1. Beijing.
We started the day with a wonderful huge buffet with an assortment of Eastern and Western dishes - not as many dim sum items as we had in Thailand but equally good dishes like lamb curry and soup noodles.
Qing, our perky and knowledgeable guide, started at us off at Tian’anmen Square and held “story time” to fill us in on the history of each site. Interestingly, her knowledge of what actually happened during the student uprising in ‘89 has been from the people in her tour groups as her texts, Google and other search engines have no information or at best, one line regarding the whole incident. Another interesting note, we asked her what the signs along the Forbidden City said but she could not read every word - everyone is now taught simplified Chinese and only Chinese scholars know both forms of the written language.
The cloudy day turned rainy and cold but that seemed to have kept the crowds at bay. We visited Mao’s tomb, which can have wait times as long as 2 hours went swimmingly quickly and you are actually rushed through the hall where his body is on display. The lighting gave him this weird orange hue.
Parts of the Forbidden City is under reconstruction to prepare for the throngs coming this summer but much of it is already completed. The complex is huge and Qing showed us many of the details regarding the structures and significance of the animals and symbols used throughout.
We learned a good deal about Cixi, the last Empress, who rose from humble beginnings to scheme her way to second wife to ruling Empress. Emperors had two wives, an East (first) and a West (second), and concubines and the one who bears a son rises in rank. Cixi bore a son and poisoned the first wife and schemed to her dying day. The story reminds me of “I, Claudius” and I wonder if that was fashioned after her!
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19May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 1. Beijing; 0. Home China Page.
&gt;China holding 3 days of mourning&lt;
Hi, everybody, been busy after visiting Tian’anmen Square, then shooting off to the Great Wall (absolutely awesome!). Quick update in the link on how China is going to mourn the dead. Will fill in the blog later today, we are all doing well and a bit exhausted from getting up to watch the sun rise over the Wall.
16May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
Forgot to mention that when we were getting onto the plane at Japan, the paparazzi appeared to be following us … then we saw why, Japan had a number of disaster relief workers heading to China to assist in the rescue! (Thank goodness as I really wasn’t ready for any interviews.)
The Holiday Inn Central Plaza is really quite nice and the beds, though firm, extremely comfortable and great linens. The bathroom is cool too - the shower head is just overhead with the tub to the side - there is no separate shower stall (both are behind the same glass door)! And get this, there are blinds in the shore/bath that opens to the room.
We got up early and had this wonderful breakfast feast of eastern and western delights - yes, after dumplings and congee, I capped off my meal with a Blegium waffle and bacon!
Today was a day of “leisure” and Storm, a famous concierge at this hotel, booked us a pedicab driver to take us around. We hit a few of the minor sites but all grand in themselves: Beijing’s oldest mosque, dating back to the 10th century; Fayuan Temple, also probably Beijing’s oldest, dating back to 696 AD; and the Beijing Traditional Opera Museum.
We got to meet the local merchants at the “hutong” our driver brought us to. We had fun speaking broken Mandarin to them and while we only knew a few words, they still tried to explain the teapot process to us in their native language! We were offered tea wherever we went and did find everyone quite friendly and really without the hard sell although I think that’s the fun they have with us foreigners (no, we aren’t all rich!)
We also got “chops” made and while I already have one from my parents trip to China way back in ‘83, we got such a good price I decided that I’d have another made but this one is twice as large and quite handsome. The inscription says “Horse,” my Chinese zodiac sign.
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15May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
We are on a 747-400 that has a second business class cabin on the upper deck but alas no spiral staircase! It’s configured 2 and 2 with three rows in front, the emergency exits and then another three rows with the galley in the back.
The seats are quite roomy with lots of leg room and lifts for the legs and a foot rest. The vibration wasn’t working all that well on my seat but it was able to move and adjust as I liked, esp. enjoyed the lumbar support! After enjoying moving my seat in all the possible arrangements they served us our welcome glass of champagne and a moist towel. I also opted for Chivas Regal on the rocks as my cocktail. Zach tried a sweet potato shucho, on the rocks, and loved sipping it with the hors d’oeuvres.
The upperdeck business class cabin was great, only about 24 seats, two wonderful attentive flight attendants, and three restrooms, never a wait. The FA’s served continuously throughout the flight, constantly roaming the cabin to fulfill any requests.
We tried the eastern menu and it was tasty - see the picture of the “kobachi” [images TK] - the dishes ranged from lobster to tuna sashimi to jellyfish to braised-beef. A bit underwhelming as the seasoning was very light; nothing a little soy sauce couldn’t fix. But the main meat dish: simmered beef with sweet soy sauce was quite good. Zach had the sea bass and found that delicious (hen hao che) as well.
Zach: In fact, Andrew managed to consume four full meals on the flight, and two more at the business class lounge. And he “wasn’t even hungry!”
After landing in Tokyo, we had to go through a security clearance again with our carry-on luggage. Zach had purchased two litres of Finlandia at Duty-Free at JFK to enjoy during the trip. Well so much for the idea of carrying on all our luggage to get through immigration quickly in Beijing and then right off to our hotel - security saw the two bottles (obviously not under 3oz each!) and told Zach they would either confiscate it or he could try to check it as luggage at the departure gate.
(Two hours later) Zach returned exhausted having gone through Japanese immigration, customs declaration, up and down numerous escalators, etc. only to find he had somehow lost his boarding pass for the flight to Beijing. After a few moments conjuring up images of the Tom Hank’s movie Terminal, order was restored. Long story short, he finally checked the bottles, got a new ticket, and found his way to the Sakura business lounge where massage chairs, showers, a complimentary back and shoulder massage and a buffet and drinks awaited! (Yes, Andrew had another complete meal waiting for me to return from customs!) And as an added bonus, Zach got his passport stamped with a Japan entry, officially a 45 minute visit to the country!
Now on the the next leg, the four hours flight from Tokyo to Beijing. Thus far, up and traveling for 22 hours with about 4 hours of sleep on the flight. China here we come!
PS. Called Mom and Dad via Skype and it worked beautifully, except I wasn’t suppose to be talking in the lounge.
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14May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
What a disappointment! Somehow we missed the noodle soup!!
Not much in the way of food - some crackers and cheese, coffee/cappucino maker, wine, alcohol and beverage selection. Comfortable seating but it looks like a movie theater
as they are set in rows across the length of the room.
The buns and sushi are wrapped in plastic and okay, we were really expecting something nice but I hear the one in Tokyo is really much better so we’ll just have bloody marys now and pretend we’re there!
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14May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
Okay, still up futzing but can’t get music to copy smoothly. Is the CD bad or is this a bad laptop (ACER)? Needed something cheap so that I wouldn’t worry too much if it got lost or broken while on the trip - and Bush is giving all us deserving folk a rebate to-boot! (Sigh)
So packing was easy but there’s still so much little stuff to take care of like memory cards and charging batteries and iPods … but I suppose it’ll be worth it after I had that first cocktail in business class!
Not reading too much about the ‘quake now. Awful stuff but we’re on our way so we’ll see what China is made of. G’night and catch you up on our business class flight on JAL!
14May2008
Posted by Andrew under: 0. Home China Page.
Okay, still up futzing but can’t get music to copy smoothly. Is the CD bad or is this a bad laptop (ACER)? Needed something cheap so that I wouldn’t worry too much if it got lost or broken while on the trip - and Bush is giving all us deserving folk a rebate to-boot! (Sigh)
So packing was easy but there’s still so much little stuff to take care of like memory cards and charging batteries and iPods … but I suppose it’ll be worth it after I had that first cocktail in business class!
Not reading too much about the ‘quake now. Awful stuff but we’re on our way so we’ll see what China is made of. G’night and catch you up on our business class flight on JAL!
